Vigneaux and Vallouise – Day Four

Bienvenue a la ville de Les Vigneaux

Day two in Vigneaux. Cora returned to work yesterday after her year of maternity leave, so today Alain watched Nahel during the morning. He is such a sweet baby – very French-looking and very adorable. Lots of personality! He doesn’t seem afraid of me even though I am un ‘etranger’. I woke up to him crying whiel Alain was on the phone, so sat down to play with him for a while. He was just lonely!

Me feeding Nahel

My cold wastn’ any better today, so after eating a croissant, I returned to bed until Isabelle was scheduled to arrive for lunchc. Alain had made a delicious swiss chard dish, with salami and priciuto and cheese. I didn’t have much appetitite, alas, but I managed to devour the home-made raspberry sorbet he made from the garden. After lunch, Lindsay and I went for a walk through the village of Vigneaux. I delivered a package to Evelyn’s house (she is visiting her Mother in Avignon) and we stopped in many places to capture photographs of the beautiful old village and mountian scenery. It felt great to be taking more photographs, and I plan to take as many as possible when I return to Paris.

Alain in Vallouise

Cora arrived at the house just after we got in from our walk, and I learned that she and Eric now live in Vengeaux. They rent a sweet house in the village and lucky lady scored another place with orange decor (it is a colour she likes – the “heat colours”). Alain brought us to Vallouise – the ville where Cora lived last year – to find a water jug for L. The shop was closed, but we did buy some postcards. Alain gave us a tour of the old ville, and I tried my best to translate into Elnglish. I think I understood most of it. we ate dinner at Cora’s tonight – duck, turnip, beans, bread, cheese, and dessert made by Lenaic and Cora. It was, of course, declisou and I am sad that it is my last night here. i hope that the next time I visit, I can speak even more french! We leave tomorrow at 9 am to take the train from Oulx.

A bientot!

Nahel sucking on my cheek!

 

Itineraries and Mountains – Day Four

Itinerary

Oct 24 – arrived in Paris, slept ’til 5h30
Oct 25 – slept til 14h30, explored the Marais
Oct 26 – slept til 12h30, visited the Louvre
Oct 27 – train to Vigneaux, dinner with the family
Oct 28 – explored Vigneaux and Vallouise, dinner with the family chez Cora
Oct 29 – train to Paris, Centre Pompidou
Oct 30 – slept til 11h15, visited Ile de la Cite (Notre Dame), Ile St. Louis
Oct 31 – slept til 11h00, visited Canal St. Martin, Eiffle Tour
Nov 1 – left at 9h45 for Charles de Gaulle to catch our plane back home

French mountains from the train

Vigneaux (written in my journal in pink metallic pen)

A pink pen for a happy day! No troubles on our journey to Vigneaux. We sat in 1st class on the train and with the exception of my cold, all was well. Our first class tickets, for some reason, cost less than the second class tickets, and first class is worth it! There isn’t a lot of extra room, but fewer people, bigger toilets, and the headrests have built-in supports. Don’t ever pass up on cheaper first class tickets on SCNR!

L->R: Me, Lena, Lili, Alain, Isa, Eric

The entire Vigneaux branch of the Mouchet family ate dinner at Alain et Isabelle’s house, and finally L has found something vegetarian, satisfying and healthy! I met Nahel, and he is very sweet, as well as Auralie – Lili – who is the girlfriend of Lenaic. She speaks english quite well, as the english of Isa, Cora and Lena has also increased. They told me my French is better now, too! It is still difficult to understand everything, but I think it is coming along nicely.

For dinner we ate beans and other vegetables from their garden in a tomato sauce; lamb; bread; potatoes; and of course, le fromage. Lena told me that he introduced me to Lili as his cousin from Canada – she REALLY likes cheese! After dinner we ate meringue and pastries made by Alain – Nana would be SO envious!

Alain's mirangues

Then we went to bed. Lindsay and I have been having terrible difficulties sleeping. I fell asleep around 1h00, but woke up several times to the sound of myself snoring, as I had stuffed tissues up my nose to prevent a pillow wet with nasal drip. Blasted cold! I fell asleep at 3h30!

Sleep, where art thou? – Day Three

L infront of the Louvre

Last night we fell asleep at 5h30., Our goal to wake up at 9h30  to the call of the alarm was sorely ignored. I was up at 12h30 and we took a long time to get ready before leaving for today’s trip.

I may have evaded the germs at work all last week, but I fear I have now caught a cold. I wish they didn’t exist in France. A quick trip to the Pharmacie (and 33$ Cnd later) provided me with lozenges, razors (I forgot mine in my bathroom at home) and cold medicine. Alas, alas, alas. We ate a chalky meal of oatmeal then hit TEMPLE Metro Station (named after the Knights of Templar!!!) on our way to the Louvre.

Joan of Ark statue on Rue de Rivoli

It was a short ride to Opera, then Pyramide station and gave us an opportunity to see some of Walk #2  -Pyramids and Palaces. Joan of Ark’s statue was gorgeous, gold gilded and standing fierce.A collection of silver monster heads decorated the “Jardin des Tuileries” and I enjoyed their many-fingered details (from clay). Then there was the Louvre. I’ve never really had much interest in museums, and the Louvre, for me, was a big gallery full of thousands of pieces of artwork that are terrific, but only so-so in terms of my interest level. It was, however, the ONE thing L knew she wanted to do/see in Paris, so I couldn’t take that away from her! We didn’t have to wait long in line (except for the toilets) and it cost less to get in to the Louvre than it does the AGo. I saw the Mona Lise, and many other beautiful paintings. My favourite, though, was the room with French sculptures.

Me & L in the French Sculpture room at the Louvre

Whereas the rest of the Louvre was stuffy, buzzing with 28000 people throughout the day, and suffocating-feeling, the French Sculpture room – made of marble and filled with natural light – was cool, calm, and beckoned me to stay. L felt it too. It was nearly devoid of people and simply a dream.

On our way out of the Louvre I saw the inverted Pyramid where in The Da Vinchy Code, the Holy Grail rests. I stood at the same spot as Audrey Tatou! We then left the Louvre after an unsuccessful attempt to find ‘the internet’ and instead sought out something to eat. Poor L, who is a vegetarian, has been eating food that is outside her norm in an attempt to eat something. We were excited to find a  restaurant with a vegetarian option, and I was pleased to find a cute, english-speaking waiter (from Turkey!)

Our waiter from Turkey

We took photos of our meal for Emilia and Jenna, which was not French but it was nourishment in time of need. And only 10,50 Euros! We then began our walk home, hitting some stops on walk #4 – Alchemists and Artists. We both want to visit the Centre Pompadou, and I want more photos of the Flemel residence. Harry Potter stars, you know? Tomorrow we take the train to Vigneaux!!!

Paris Goals – Day Two

To See in Paris

1. Louvre (walk #2 — History & Mystery: Paris, Peter Caine)
   

   Courtyard Musee Carnavalet ('08 trip)

2. Eiffle Tower (#17)
3. Amelie’s Montmartre
4. Following the Rose Line (#19)
5. Notre Dame (#1)
6. Ile St. Louis (#9)
7. Knights & Mansions (#5)
8. Alchemists & Artists (#4)

Today we woke up at a stunning 2:30 pm. That would be 8:30 am back home – now feeling a bit less guilt! We were ready to leave at 4 pm and set out to explore our new neighbourhood. Previous tenants left copies of their guidebooks and despite having brought two of my own, I gave L a copy of a Marais map from one of the books on our shelf. The streets are so twisty here, it seemed like we were lost in the Bastille but really we ended up on the same street as the Musee Carnavalet (Rue de Sevigne)!

Hotel de Soubise

On our journey we stumbled upon a court yard for the Hotel de Soubise. Legend (history) has it that the family was poor, so the lady (Princess de Soubise) slept with King Louis in order to take care of her family. She became his mistress which resulted in this fabulous mansion. Her husband lived in the country estate, and Mme. Soubise birthed 11 children, number 5 greatly resembling the King.

Anyway, we wandered the Marais (3eme) district today – none of the streets run in a grid so it is easy to get lost. Again, as in my 2008 trip, getting lost in Paris resulted in a visit to the Musee Carnavalet. We didn’t venture far into the museum because we thought it was nearly closing time. Apparently, daylight savings time occurs one week earlier in France than in Canada – we were wandering around in fear of getting locked in the museum, when really we still had an hour to view some of the rooms.

Afterwards we headed back to the apartment and decided on Thai for dinner. Oops, they were closed, as were the market stalls at The Marché des Enfants Rouge – the oldest food market in Paris, built in 1615 under the rule of King Louis XIII. The name means “ Market of the Red Children” after a nearby 17th century orphanage where the children wore red uniforms. Anyway, the market was closed, so we tried for sushi. Closed for dinner break (2:30 – 6 pm). That’s how we found out that France had experienced DST. We went to a different supermarche, where the bread hopefully didn’t taste as terrible (why we bought bread from a supermarket in France is beyond me, except that the boulangeries were all closed) and picked up some food for dinner. I had some goat cheese with which to choke the atrocity of bread as previously mentioned, le boefe hashe, which I sauteed with olive oil and garlic, eggplant and one of L’s pain du chocolat.

Fromage de chevre

After dinner we ventured forth in search of an internet cafe listed at #32 Rue de Picardie. Instead we found two young men in search of 1 Euro with which to buy a drink. I told them I didn’t speak French, and started yelling over eachother to speak in a mix of English/French to me (I think they maybe had already had a drink?) Then I said in French that I had no money, to which they yelled in amusement for a great length of time. L was confused, and I was uncomfortable standing next to these animated youths, so we continued on our adventure, now in search of a cafe  – no internet required. L wanted a warm drink. For some reason, I am afraid to enter cafes. I don’t know if it is the people inside (or seated outside – it’s scary to walk through a crowd and the Parisians tend to stare!), fear of not understanding… je ne sais pas! I told L I would follow her, and we did find a nice cafe with a nice pooch to nuzzle me. Dogs are highly revered in France and are allowed in all buildings (almost) and even on the train!

Upon our return to the apartment I plotted out our route for tomorrow and now it is time for bed!

Bon nuit!

Bienvenue a Paris – Day One

Quick note: I fully intended to blog each day I was in France, but despite searching high and low for an internet cafe, we came out empty handed. Instead L & and I wrote in our travel journals each night, and it is from these entries that I share the following with you. Thanks for visiting me on my visit to France!

Nous arrivons! The plan ride was tres courte… just over six hours and much more comfortable than other plane rides I have had. Our landlord agreed to meet us at  the apartment a 9h00 but we had to wait for him! We were very tired – by the time we fell asleep it was 3:30 am back home. Lyndsea had her first ride on the metro. By some lucky fluke, we accidentally boarded a train direct a Gar du Nord, which is where we had to go. The ride was quiet and smooth, but we arrived a Republique much earlier than anticipated. Lyndsea attempted some photos of the gorgeous statue at Metro Station Republique, but it was still dark. Being dark, we had some difficulties finding the street names, but were able to explore Marais a bit in search of the correct streets. We have a bakery, market, sushi restaurant and supermarche at the end of our street.

We slept until 5pm today, so didn’t get any daylight to explore, but tomorrow will be a different story. We walked in search of a place to eat dinner. With so  many rumoured cafes in Paris, i thought it would be easier to chose somewhere to eat. Alas, not so – and ordering wasn’t simple quand nous choississons une restaurante, parce que Lyndsea ne mange pas la viande. But we found her ‘Le Potage des Legumes’. Elle n’aime pas beaucoup. My french was useful (although very much grasping for straws when it came to the food names) with the waiter who spoke very little Anglais… and the very friendly man in the toilets who chatted us up for a while – spoke with him in French also. He was from Morocco, but Parisienne at heart. On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at Fanprix to pick up for for home meals. Tres dificile a decide!!! I did, however, get some saucisson… Yum!

Maintenant, je parts pour lit les livres de voyage.

Bon nuit!

 

Au revoir!

This time tomorrow, I will be hovering over the Atlantic Ocean, nearly in France. Packing, stressing, crisis-solving, and thanking such good friends for keeping me sane through the preparation. Sure I love travelling – but I really dislike the TRAVELLING part. I just want to get there – no details, no issues with forgetting important items or driving three hours to the airport or flight delays or missing the landlord because of a flight delay or getting lost on the metro or not being able to find the right word for “something”. What is the French word for “something”?

A shop on Ile St. Louis.

But, deep breath, the day has approached. One last sleep until I embark on my next European adventure. Gifts for family packed, passport packed, deposit for apartment packed, clothing, shoes, accessories (all essential items on a Parisian trip) packed. Contact information, check. Guidebook – check! Travel buddy – Lindsay – she’s ready too. Immodium and Gravol and sleepmask and books and iPod and on-air snacks and comfy clothes. Okay.

I think I’m ready!

Walking with Amelie

Image from WhyGo Paris?

My friend Lauren introduced me to the movie ‘Amelie’ several years ago. To my delight, Lindsay is also familiar with the film and we have decided to embark on an Amelie-themed adventure in Montmatre. The following tour is courtesy of ‘In the footsteps of Amelie Poulain.’ Some snippets, perhaps?

The walk starts at metro station Lamarck-Caulaincourt, Amélie’s station (it is here where she leads a blind man before she hops on the on her way to her lover!).

later… At the far end of the square we turn right into a narrow lane, Allee des Brouillards. This is where Amélie sometimes came to do some day dreaming.

At the bottom of the square we turn left into the  Rue des Trois Frères in. At nr. 56 is the grocery where Amélie, buys here three hazelnuts and one artichoke… The grocer, whose real name is Ali, has kept the sign “Maison Colignon, fondee 1956″ from the movie. One of the shop’s windows is now a showcase with newspaper clippings about the movie and the shop.

Café des deux Moulins

We now go find Amélie’s café. We walk along Rue des Abesses in a westerly direction and turn left into rue Lepic. After some 50 metres we see the café on our right hand. Thet interior of Café des deux Moulins is exactly like it was in the movie and the window on the side street is decorated with Amelie memorabilia. The photos of lead actress  Audry Tautou smiles at us from behind the glass. The owner has sold the café after much thought under the condition that the interior remains in tact.

We turn right into rue de Saint Vincent. In this street the first shot of the movie was taken: “On September 3rd 6:28pm and 32 seconds a blue fruitfly, capable of 14,670 wingbats per minute, landed on the Rue Saint Vincent in Montmartre”. through the rue de la Bonne we walk clockwise towards the rear side of the Sacre Coeur cathedral.

Other “real” film locations that played a part in the movie are, among others the porn shop Palace, where Nino worked part-time (close to Place Blanche), the main hall of the  Gare de l’Est railway station, where Amélie lets  Nino discover the secret of the photo-machine and the Canal St Martin, where Amélie practices skimming stones.

The wonderful world of Paris

Image from Haute Marais

It all happened when I was looking for a photo of my soon-to-be Parisian street. A google image search revealed a few interesting photos, I clicked, I read, I followed a link, and found what may be the end of my stash of Euros. Ready for the news?

Beneath my apartment is a clothing shop.

please don’t

I’ve browsed the blog. I’m in trouble. I love the stuff in this store! Luckily, it is all out of my price range… it doesn’t hurt to browse though, does it? Every day? Every time I climb the stairs to my apartment? I also found this shop via the please don’t blog: Les Fleurs. I want to go there!

Other shops on my street…

• At 19 there is Madame Sans Gêne, a traditional French restaurant
• at 20 this is Galerie Lacen, which features knitted items like hair brushes and slippers.
• at 32 is Web Bar, which I understand to be an internet cafe
• not on my street, but a few over are the Paribas bank, which does not charge me to take out money (thank you ScotiaBank!) and the bicycle rental spot, in case we are adventurous and attempt riding a bicycle a Paris.

And a bit of information about my temporary neighbourhood, for those interested:

The rue de Picardie apartment was recently purchased and renovated in response to the growing demand for decidedly upscale and elegantly furnished vacation rentals. On a short, quiet street located in central Paris, the apartment is only a few steps away from the bustling rue de Bretagne in the ancient market district of the Marais, one of the oldest parts of Paris.

This central location provides the local inhabitants (and you) with some of the best urban living that Paris offers. Due to the apartment’s situation off of a narrow avenue, there is no noise or traffic encroaching on your privacy. Just a few steps away, however, are numerous shops, restaurants, and cafés in a bustling neighborhood. The oldest outdoor food market in Paris, which dates back almost 1000 years, is nearby on the rue de Bretagne.

From produce sellers to cheese shops, from meat markets to chocolate stores, those staying at rue de Picardie can immediately immerse themselves in the pleasures, the charm and the history that only a central Parisian marketplace can offer. The smell of fresh croissants and morning coffee on the surrounding streets is just one of many distinctly Parisian pleasures that you will enjoy.

In the immediate neighborhood surrounding the apartment, the city is continuing its long-awaited plans of urban enhancement. The rue de Bretagne now has very wide sidewalks which provide more room for cafés and restaurants to set their tables out. Indeed, this part of the Marais is thriving and the Marais overall is one of the better known areas of historic Paris. Just a block away from the apartment is a large city park built where the Knights Templar castle courtyard used to be. Before the building was torn down in the 19th century, the tower prison provided “guest accommodations” to Marie Antoinette.

Thanks to many years of public and private historical renovation work and urban renewal, the Marais has become one of the most agreeable places to reside in Paris. The central location of the Marais district allows for easy access to other key Parisian destinations. For example, Notre Dame Cathedral is just a brief 15 minute walk straight down the rue des Archives. After visiting the Notre Dame cathedral, you could continue on to the Latin Quarter on the south side of the Seine, that is, if you do not simply prefer taking a scenic walk down the Seine towards the world’s most famous museum, the Louvre.

Rue de Picardie is only a short distance from the Republique metro station where 4 metro lines intersect and offer direct routes to other key destinations including Montmartre, the Champs-Elysées, and the Eiffel Tower.

Courtesy of I Love Paris Apartment Rentals.

Three days!

Packing for Paris

UPCYCLED Olive Army Green VINTAGE Train Case with Black Forest of Trees and Black Crow by GetReadySetGO

According to my ticker, I have less than six days now before we leave. I have devoted today  to running ‘trip’ errands, and last night  I searched online for packing suggestions. Apparently, the key to successful Paris packing is to pack light – not a problem; I bought a smaller suitcase so that I wouldn’t bring as much! Luckily, we have a washing machine in our apartment, so that reduces the need to bring several changes of clothing. The packing guides also warn that it rains often in Paris – not to fear, my experience in Ireland has resulted in a permanent purse-umbrella. According to the long-term forecast, we can expect the weather in Paris to be slightly warmer than here, but typically less than 15 degrees Celsius.In Vigneaux, it was was -5 Celcius yesterday, but next week it will be above freezing. Alain instructed me to pack my ‘woolie’. I think that means warm jacket, ou manteau.

Here is the list that I have come up with:

Paris

• “moderate weight coat” – red jacket? borrow a trench from someone else?
• two pairs of jeans (boot jeans, bootcut)
• two dresses (joe fresh, ?)
• two plain tshirts
• two sweaters that will match everything
• three pairs of tights
• slip
• bras
• five pairs of socks
• one scarf (I’m sure I will buy more when I am there)
• Black slip-ons (shoes)
• one pair of boots
• 9 pairs of underwear
• one pair silver earrings, two necklaces that fit with all outfits, one ring
• 6 band-aids
• 3 color copies of my passport with my home/hotel address and emergency contact info written on back.
• Medications, Immodium, Gravol (Lindsay is bringing)
• Camera & charger & remote control & USB cord
• guide book
• Electric plug adapter (Lindsay is bringing)
• Laptop & charger (Lindsay is bringing)
• journal, glue sticks (2), pastels and felt-tip pen (and envelope to collect treasures)
• bag for grocery purchases

Vigneaux

• Warm coat
• gifts for the family
  

Carry-On

• Umbrella
• Extra underwear
• Essential makeup/toothbrush/etc.
• Book
• Passport
• Printed documentation of my hotel and airline reservation
• Written directions to my hotel
• OHIP card, VISA
• iPod
• contact lenses

Packing suggestions courtesy of the Travelling Professor. I remember feeling very plain when I arrived in Paris last year. It seems like the Parisians have a natural flair for looking fabulous. It is with this in mind that I am carefully planning out my clothing choices so that they will fit with my need to walk all over the place, but also fit my need not to look too much like a tourist!

Heart attacks and anxiety-filled moments…

… they both set in when I created a count-down ticker on Facebook and discovered that I have less than 12 days until my plane leaves for Paris. I should be exited, right? Eeeep – I’m not! I’m excited about BEING in France, but there is so much to do before I leave that I’m lost in the wee details.

To help myself organize, I’ve decided to create a to-do list. Here it is.

1. find someone(s) to feed my pets Drake Drake Drake Drake!
2. gather gifts for family
3. find a suitcase that is bigger than my carry-on but smaller than my suitcase
4. check out travel guides from the CK library (any suggestions? i want one in addition to Paris History and Mystery)
5. find someone to give me a ride to Toronto – Drake
6. give Laura instructions re: picking me up from Pearson on Nov 1
7. figure out what journal supplies to bring (Lindsay and I are going to do art journals while we are there)
8. borrow camera from Mom (charge!)
9. make sure we have convertors that work
10. put Etsy shop on vacation
11. gather contact info/itinerary for family
12. take out necessary Euros and deposit cheque
13. pack carry-on, including snacks
14. figure out what shoes/clothes/etc. to bring for Paris + Les Vigneaux weather
15. gather necessary paperwork (passport, copies, health insurance, train tickets, directions to apartment, plane tickets, etc.)
16. pack!!!

I think this will help me streamline.